BANARASI SARI AND BROCADES
Banaras is one of the rich weaving craft centre of
India, famous for Brocade saris and allover dress material. Exclusive varieties of the
saris are Jangla, Tanchoi, Vaskat, Cutwork, Tishu, and Butidar which are made of silk warp
and silk weft, on plain/satian ground base, brocaded with extra weft patterns in different
layouts introducing Buties, Bells, creepers, Buttas in ground, border and Anchal for
getting glamours appearance.
As in the History of the India Banaras is known
since regveda about 1500 year 2000 year BC and also a period of Ramayana and Mahabharat
come to know identical reference about the fame of Banarasi Sharee and Fabrics as known
Hiranya Vastra (Putamber Vastra).
In the ancient time Banaras was famous for the
weaving of cotton saree and dress materials, but slowly switched over to silk weaving,
during the Moghal period around 14th century weaving of brocades with intricate designs
using gold & Silver threads was the speciality of Banaras.
Brocade refer to those textiles where in patterns
are created in weaving by transfixing or thrusting the pattern-thread between the warp. In
regular weaving the weft thread passes over and under the warp thread regularly. But when
brocade designs in gold, silver silk or cotton threads are to be woven, special threads
are transfixed in between by skipping the passage of the regular weft over a certain
number of warp threads (depending upon the pattern) and by regularising the skipping by means of
pre-arranged heddles for each type of patterning. There may be several sets of heddles so
arranged that on different occasions, they raise and depress irregular number of threads
in turn, as required by the exigencies of the pattern.
Zari-brocades-When gold and silver threads are use
along with or without silk-threads, thrust either as special weft or warp to create
glittering raised or-namentation. We have the Zari brocade kind of fabrics. When we talk
of gold or silver threads. It is to be under stood that the gold,threads are actually only
silver threads with gold polish and that these threads are obtained by closely winding
extremely fine gold or silver wire around a silk thread.
According to Sir George Watt, When the gold and
silver threads were used so densely that the ground was hardly visible, the material was
kinkhab proper and was too heavy for clothing, it was therefore used for trappings,
hangings and furnishing. Only that material in which the Zari patterns were scattered was
true brocade. This was used for clothing.
BANARAS SILK JAMDANI
The silk Jamdani, a technical variety of brocade or
the 'figured muslin' ,traditionally woven in Banaras may be considered to be one of the
finest products to come out of the Banarasi loom. Here silk fabric is brocaded with
cotton and rarely with zari threads. jamdani is woven by transfixing the pattern thread
between a varying number of warp threads in proportion to the size of the designed then
throwing the shuttle to pass the regular weft. By repeating this process, where in the
size and placing of the cut-thread is in accordance with the character of the pattern, the
Jamdani weaver produces arrange of intricate designs.
Some of the traditional motifs of Jamdani included
Chameli (Jas mine), panna hazar (Thousand emeralds) genda buti (marigold flower)pan buti
(leaf form) tircha (diagonally striped) etc. The most attractive design feature of the
Jamdani sari was konia or a corner-motif having a floral mango buta.
It has own special character of (URTU) Binding in
the figured disignes on ground fabrics using extra weft designs thread dampatch technique
for the or namentation of the sharee. It is silk x silk base fabrics or-namented with
extra looking and technique of weaving in karhuwan.
Brocade weavers of Banares have often endeavoured to
add a sense of gaiety and festivity by brocading patterns in colourful silk threads amidst
the usual gold and silver motifs ;of the brocade convention. The present sari is an
example in which muga silk motifs have been in laid. Jangala wildly scrolling and
spreading vegetation motif is among the eldest in Banares brocades. This old rose sari is
embellished with beautifully contrasted gold-creepers and silver flowers of the Jangala
motif.The borders have brocaded running creepers in muga silk and gold and silver-Zari
threds.The end panel is a combination of motifs of the borders and condensed Jangala of
the field. Muga silk brocading in-hances the beauty of the sari while reducing the cost.
All over Jal Jangla design to get the stylish work of the sarees and also used mena work
for the decoration of the fabrics. The exclusive design saree has time taking skilled
work, costly fabrics are widely accepted during the wedding occassion.
Using a technique similar to that of brocade,
weavers of Banaras weave saris using colorful extraweft silk yarn for patterning . This
varietyis known as tanchoi. This maroon-coloured sari in satin weave is brocaded with
elaborate motifs from the Jamawar shawl tradition from Kashmir, the characteristic feature
of which was paisley motif, often elaborated into a maze which would look kateidos-copic
in character. The field has a densely spread minute diaper of Jamawar style paisley. The
end panel has large motifs of multiple paisley forms-one growing out of the other. The
border, as well as the cross-borders of the end panel, have miniature paisley creepers.
Tanchoi fabric has remarkable fame in the India as well as all over in the world widely
acceptable to all kind of the people.
The renowned Zari brocade weavers of Banaras has
evolved a technique of weaving tissue material which looked like golden cloth. By running Zari in
weft a combination of Zari and silk in extra-weft (pattern thread) and silk in warp, the
weave of this sari has densely patterned with golden lotuses floating in a glimmering
pond.The 'drops of water' are created by cut work technique. The borders and the end panel
have a diaper of diamond patterns enclosed by a border of running paisley motifs. Tissue
saris are most popular as wedding saris among the affluent. Tissue sari has glazed,
shining character due to the use of real gold Zari/Silver Zari in weft on silk worp ground
are ornamented with the particulars traditional design such as Jangla Butidar, Shikargah
This type of saree prepared by cut work technique on
plain ground texture after removing of the floated thread which are not design (Woven)
during the weaving process which provide good transparent look.
Cut work is the cheaper version of the Jamdani
variety. In cut work the ;pattern is made to run from selvage to selvage letting it hang
loosely between two motifs and the extra-thread is then cut manually, giving the effect of
The most striking feature of this dark blue silken
saree is that it is brocaded with pattern threads of gold, silver and silk. Due to darkar
shade of gold and lighter of silver this variety of patterning in brocade is
conventionally known as Ganga-Jamuna, indicating the confluence of these two river whose
waters are believed to be dark and light receptively. The end panel has a row of arches,
in each of which a bouquet of flowers is placed. A slightly smaller and variegated bouquet
is diapered all over the field.
The butidar saree is a rich kind of the Banaras
Saree in high traditional pattern and motiff of the design locally popularised such as
Angoor Bail, Gojar Bail, Luttar Bail, Khulta bail, Baluchar bail, Mehrab bail, Doller
butti,Ashraffi Butti, Latiffa Butti, Reshem Butti Jhummar Butti,Jhari Butta, Kalma
Butti,Patti Butti, Lichhi Butti, Latiffa Butta, Kairy Kalanga Thakka Anchal, Mehrab
Anchal, Baluchar Butta with the use of real gold and silver Jari and Katan silk in the
Diversification of Traditional
Keeping in view to get global market, the need for
the diversification of traditional Varanasi Sarees and dress material was felt long ago.
Slowly but standly production of these items are gaining momentum. The main item which
have been diversified are named below
Scarf 45"*90", 36"*36",
Muflar 11"*72", 10"*60"
Mats 16"*16", 18"*18"
Dress material Running
Wall Hanging Various diamention
Made ups like Curtain, cussion cover, Table cover,
Napkins, Runners etc.
Since the fashion of the international Consumer
changes time to time. Therefore making pace with the same the Handloom weavers have to
switching over to the new type of products, keeping alive their traditional skills, for
earning comparatively better wages. In the Banaras following localty are famous for
weaving of different traditional Diversified products.
Madanpura, Reori talab, Bajardeeha, Ram Nagar,
Lohta, Bari Bazar, Pili Kothi, Chittanpura, Doshipura and Lallapura etc.
Angika Hathkargha Vikas Udyog Sahkari Samiti Ltd.
of : BANARASI SILK SAREES
Address. 1/88. Gola Ghat, Ramnagar Varanasi-221008
Banarasi Silk Saree Tanchhua
Patola Warp - Katan ( Mulbery Silk) 20*22
Width - Katan (
Mulbery Silk) 20*22 Length of Saree - 5.50Mts-5.65Mts. Width of Saree - 45"-46"
Colour - Fast Price - Rs.2700.00
Banarasi Silk Saree Tanchhuai Patala Warp - Katan (
Mulbery Silk) 20*22 Width - Katan ( Mulbery Silk) 20*22 Length of Saree - 5.50Mts - 5.65Mts
of Saree - 45"-46" Colour - Fast Price - 2700.00
Silk Durje/ Table Cloth Warp - Katan (Mulbery Silk)
- Art Silk, Zari Length - .80Cm. Width - .75Cm. Colour - Fast Price - 400.00
Banarasi Silk Saree
Patola Booti Warp - Katan
(Mulbery Silk) 20*22
Width - Zarjet
Length of Saree - 5.50Mts-5.65Mts
Width of Saree -
45"-46" Colour - Fast Price - 1600.00
Diamand Silk Co-operative Society Ltd. Development
Commissnor for Handioom Govt. of India (Ministry of Textiles) (Under Export Promotion
Plans) Add. (Handloom Complex) J.11/63-101.Nati
Imli Bunkar Colony Varanasi-221002
GRAND INDUSTRIAL CO_OPERATIVE SOCIETY ltd.
22"*72" Price -
Banarsi Scarves 22"*72" Price - 400.00
Banarasi Scarves 22"*72" Price - 475.00
Crushed Tissue Scarves
Length - 2.40Mts.
36" Price - 475.00
Banarasi Scarves 22"*72" Price - 625.00
Cooperative Society Ltd. Handloom
Complex J.11/63-101 Nati Imli Bunkar Colony Varanasi-221002
information: A.D.I. Handloom, Varanasi